Why a California distillery is making a big bet on a small Western Slope town

When the founders of California’s Shelter Distilling began searching for a place to build a new location, they had a few prerequisites. The spot needed to be large enough to house a brand new production facility for making spirits and beer, it needed to be accessible enough to launch regional distribution, and, perhaps most importantly, it needed to have ample access to the outdoors.

That may not sound like a long list, but according to Matt Hammer, it was a seemingly impossible combination to fulfill even as he and fellow co-founders Jason Senior and Karl Anderson conducted a nationwide search.

“We looked forever. You couldn’t make it happen,” Hammer said recently.

But then the Shelter team came to Montrose, an unassuming town of 21,500 residents that’s known more for its proximity to Telluride than its nightlife. Hammer and company were charmed by a plot of land on the Uncompahgre River they could use as a blank canvas to build their dream brewstillery in hopes it would become a fixture of the community.

Shelter Distilling broke ground in April 2023 and about a year later – on May 18 – Shelter debuted its 14,000-square-foot production facility, bar and restaurant at 947 Mayfly Drive, complete with the best patio in town. The space is more than four times larger than the modest distillery and bar in Mammoth Lakes where it got its start, and with its sleek, modern design, it infuses a city aesthetic into an otherwise rustic rural area.

Although the 3,500-liter liquor still and 30-barrel brewing system haven’t yet been put to work, Shelter has grand plans to make Montrose the hub of its beverage making and distribution as it grows into a regional brand. Last year, the company also opened a bar within Montrose Regional Airport’s new terminal – near the county’s first public escalators – to entice travelers to the Western Slope.

It’s safe to say the company is making a big bet on the small Western Slope town.

“At the end of the day, like you want to work and be where you love. And you want to do what you love,” Hammer said. “You might as well go for it.”

Hammer, Senior and Anderson first met in California and bonded over an appreciation for well-crafted beverages. Hammer and his wife owned a coffee roasting business, while Senior and Anderson were local brewers. They teamed up casually to create a series of coffee beers and realized they worked well together on creative, liquid-focused projects.

In 2017, they opened Shelter Distilling in a 3,300-square-foot space in Mammoth Lakes to serve thirsty powder hounds. Hammer, a former professional snowboarder, joked they built the bar to withstand dancing and it was put to the test almost immediately.

“After the first night, there were puncture marks in the bartop. Someone got up and danced on it in stilettos,” he said.

The vibe was great, but the constraints of the physical space made expanding infeasible. While the scene will likely be more tame in Montrose, the company’s approach to spirits is expected to kick into high gear.

In addition to making popular spirits like whiskey, gin and agave, Shelter also makes its own vermouth, absinthe, brandy and other liqueurs, as well as canned cocktails. It currently serves about half a dozen beers, though once the mash tun is up and running, Hammer expects to have twice as many on draft.

The kitchen serves dishes such as burgers, elk carpaccio, tacos and chili relleno for guests to pair with their libations.

Aside from the menus, Shelter Distilling is a destination for its patio, which offers unobstructed views of the Uncompahgre River and the bike path that runs adjacent to it. The town of Montrose added a boat launch and take-out point on the riverbank for those who prefer to float there, too, Hammer said.